When it arrives
Your 3-inch plug
It arrives actively growing. Water it the day it comes, let it rest in bright shade for 2–3 days, then harden it off for about a week before planting. Set the top of the root ball level with the soil — never deeper.
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Hidcote Blue grown by our community
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- Mature height
- 24.0 in
- Mature spread
- 30.0 in
- Bloom
- Mid-June – peak Mid-June
- Fragrance
- Strong
- Deer
- Resistant
Lavender grow guide
How to grow Hidcote Blue
English lavender · Lavandula angustifolia
Full sun, fast-draining lean soil and a neutral-to-alkaline pH. The hardiest lavender: it thrives in cold winters if roots stay dry, and needs a yearly trim that never cuts into bare wood.
Check my zone & planting dates
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Full sunLight
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Low waterFast drainage
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pH 6.5–8.0Soil
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Zones 5a–8bHardiness
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24″ tall30″ wide
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ResistantDeer · rabbits resistant
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Mildly toxicPets
Huckleberry saysTell me where you grow and I’ll check if Hidcote Blue will thrive there.
Hardy in zones 5a–8b
Spring after hard frosts, through early summer, is best in zones 5-6. Fall planting works only if roots have about 2 months to establish before freeze-up (by late August in Michigan).
Your year with Hidcote Blue
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When it arrives
Your potted plant
It arrives growing in its pot. Water on arrival and let it settle in light shade for 2–3 days. Loosen any circling roots and plant with the top of the root ball level with the soil.
When to plant
Spring after hard frosts, through early summer, is best in zones 5-6. Fall planting works only if roots have about 2 months to establish before freeze-up (by late August in Michigan).
How deep
Set the crown (where stems meet roots) exactly at soil level, or slightly high on a mound, never deeper than it grew in the pot. Burying stems invites rot. Top-dress with pea gravel, not bark mulch.
Spacing
18-24 in apart for most cultivars (12-18 in for dwarf types used as edging); rows 3 ft apart for good air flow.
Soil
Lean sandy, gravelly or loamy soil; heavy clay only if raised or mounded · pH 6.5–8.0
Fix-it tip: In clay, plant on a mound or raised bed 8-12 in high and mix in coarse grit or pea gravel, not peat or compost-heavy mixes. If pH is below 6.5, add garden lime per a soil test. Skip rich organic mulch; use gravel.
Sun
Full sun (tolerates light afternoon shade in hot southern climates).
Needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sun. In shade it gets leggy, flowers poorly and is more prone to disease.
Don’t give up on it
Is it alive? What spring looks like
Evergreen, not truly dormant: the gray foliage often looks dead in March-April. New silvery-green growth starts at stem tips and base in late April to May in zone 5-6. Do the scratch test before giving up on it.
Spring
Wait until new growth shows (mid-late May in zone 5-6), then shape lightly, removing dead tips and keeping green leaves on every stem.
Summer
Main bloom June-July in zone 5-6, often a lighter second flush in late summer. Harvest as buds open. Water only in long dry spells.
Fall
Light tidy after bloom, done by early September in cold zones. No hard pruning or feeding late in the season.
Winter
Evergreen gray foliage that looks dull. Snow cover helps. Keep drainage sharp; don't pile mulch on the crown.
Watering
First season: Water deeply at planting, then about 1 gallon per plant weekly when rain is short through the first summer. Let the top inch dry between waterings.
After that: Drought tolerant from year two. Water only in long dry spells, deeply and at the base, never in the evening on the leaves. Rain is usually enough in the Great Lakes region.
Feeding
Little or none. Lavender does best in lean soil. If growth is weak, give a light dose of slow-release or low-nitrogen fertilizer once in spring. Too much feeding means floppy growth, fewer flowers, and more disease.
Pruning & deadheading
Shear off spent flower stems after bloom, and shape the plant into a mound by about a third. A light spring tidy once new growth appears. Never cut into leafless old wood; it rarely resprouts. Always leave at least 2-3 sets of green leaves on each stem.
Dividing
Do not divide. Lavender is a woody subshrub with one main stem base; division usually kills it. Replace old woody plants with new ones from cuttings or plugs.
Winter
Hardy in zones 5-8 (many cultivars to zone 4 with snow cover). Winter wet, not cold, is the main killer. In windy, snowless zone 5 sites, a loose cover of evergreen boughs helps. Don't prune hard in fall.
Summer heat
Loves heat and sun. Humid summers (Southeast, humid Midwest) are the bigger threat: give good air flow, wide spacing and gravel mulch to keep leaves dry and avoid fungal dieback.
Looks gray and dead in early spring
Likely cause: Normal winter dormancy; leaves dull over winter and new growth starts late
What to do: Wait until mid-to-late May (zone 5-6). Scratch stems: green under bark is alive. Then trim off only truly dead tips.
Whole plant or one side turns gray-brown and collapses in summer
Likely cause: Root or crown rot from wet, heavy soil, overwatering or mulch piled on the crown
What to do: Remove the plant and soil around it. Replant on a gravel-amended mound in full sun and water less.
Woody, splayed center with bare stems
Likely cause: Skipped annual pruning; stems lengthen and split under snow
What to do: Prune yearly, leaving green leaves on each stem. Very old woody plants rarely recover; replace them.
Lots of leaves, few flowers
Likely cause: Too much shade or too much fertilizer or rich soil
What to do: Move to 6-8+ hours of sun, stop feeding, and use leaner, grittier soil.
Too wet or too dry?
Overwatering: yellowing lower leaves, gray-black stem bases, sudden wilting of a whole branch or plant (root rot). Underwatering in year one: soft drooping tips that recover after a drink.
Watch for
- Root and crown rot (Phytophthora and others) in wet or heavy soil
- Leaf spot and stem blight in humid summers or crowded plantings
- Spittlebugs (foamy blobs on stems in spring); rinse off with water
- Alfalfa mosaic virus: yellow mottled leaves; remove affected plants
Pets & wildlife
ASPCA lists lavender as toxic to dogs, cats and horses (linalool, linalyl acetate): nausea, vomiting (not in horses) and appetite loss. Nibbling a garden plant rarely causes more; keep concentrated oils away from pets.
Deer: resistant · Rabbits: resistant
Finnegan saysStill not sure what’s wrong? Ask Plant Health — describe it or add a photo.
In a container
Good in pots · 2 gallon+
Use a 12-16 in clay pot with a gritty mix. In zone 6 and colder, potted plants are less hardy than in-ground ones; move the pot to an unheated garage or bury it in the ground for winter.
Indoors
Outdoor plant
A cold-hardy lavender that needs winter chill and strong sun; it declines indoors. Keep it outside year-round, or overwinter potted plants in an unheated garage or cold frame.
Winter chill
Best after a cold winter
Winter chill helps English lavender set a strong flush of flower buds; plants grown without cold often bloom less. Many cultivars rebloom lightly in late summer if deadheaded.
Growing it on
3-inch plug
1-gallon pot once roots circle the plug
Garden bed or a 2 gallon pot
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Potted plant
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Garden bed or a pot at least 2 gallon
Time to move up? Slide the plant out: if white roots wrap the outside of the soil, it’s ready for the next size.
The one rule that matters
The green-wood rule
After the first bloom, cut flower stems plus 1-2 in of leafy growth, shaping a rounded mound. Keep 2-3 sets of green leaves on every stem; never cut into gray, leafless wood. Finish by early September in cold zones.
When to harvest
For fresh bouquets and culinary use, cut when the first 1-2 buds on a spike open. For drying, cut when about half the buds are open. Harvest in the morning after dew dries. For oil, cut at about half bloom.
Cold hardiness
USDA zones 5-8; many cultivars survive zone 4 with reliable snow cover and sharp drainage. The best lavender for Michigan and other cold-winter regions.
In the kitchen
The preferred culinary lavender; sweet, low-camphor flavor. Use buds sparingly in baking, teas, syrups and herb blends.
Essential oil
Source of true lavender oil, rich in linalool and linalyl acetate with little camphor. Sweeter and finer than lavandin oil, but lower yield per plant.
Good companions
Same sunny, dry, lean bed: yarrow, catmint, salvia, Russian sage, coneflower, sedum, thyme, oregano, artemisia, ornamental grasses and roses (if not overwatered).
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