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Lavender companion · grow guide
Perennial Salvia / Russian Sage · Salvia
Give full sun and well-drained soil. Perennial salvias (S. nemorosa, S. × sylvestris) rebloom when cut back; Russian sage (S. yangii) is a woody, late-waking subshrub pruned only in spring.
Check my zone & planting dates
Full sunLight
Low waterFast drainage
pH 6.0–8.0Soil
Zones 3a–8bHardiness
28″ tall34″ wide
ResistantDeer · rabbits resistant
Not known toxicPets
Huckleberry saysTell me where you grow and I’ll check if Back to the Fuchsia will thrive there.
Hardy in zones 3a–8b
Spring is best; early fall works if 6 weeks remain before freeze.
Your year with Back to the Fuchsia
When it arrives
Plugs arrive in active growth. Water the tray right away, set it in bright light out of harsh wind, and plant within a few days. If you wait, bump them into 3–4" pots. Harden off for a week before planting out, and keep the root ball moist the first 3–4 weeks.
Spring is best; early fall works if 6 weeks remain before freeze.
Set the crown level with the soil, never buried.
Perennial salvias 18–24"; Russian sage about 3 ft.
Sandy, gravelly or loamy · pH 6.0–8.0
Fix-it tip: In heavy clay, raise the bed or add grit. Skip rich compost; lean soil gives sturdier stems. Wet winter soil is the main killer.
Full sun (tolerates light shade, with fewer flowers).
6+ hours of sun keeps plants compact. Russian sage especially flops in shade.
Don’t give up on it
Salvia nemorosa types show basal leaves in early spring. Russian sage is late: woody stems look dead until mid- to late spring, when small gray-green buds break. Wait before cutting or removing it.
Cut Russian sage back once buds show.
Shear perennial salvias after the first flush.
Leave stems standing.
Keep soil on the dry side.
First season: Water weekly the first season, letting the top inch dry between waterings.
After that: Drought tolerant once established; water only in long dry spells.
Little to none; heavy feeding causes flopping.
Perennial salvia: when the first flush fades, cut stems back to the leafy base for rebloom. Russian sage: leave stems up in fall; cut to several inches above ground in spring once buds show.
Perennial salvias every 3–4 years in spring if the center opens. Russian sage rarely needs it.
Perennial salvia is hardy to zone 4; Russian sage to zone 5. Don't cut Russian sage back in fall; keep soil from staying wet.
Both thrive in heat and dry air. In humid regions give room for air flow.
No rebloomLikely cause: Spent spikes not cut
What to do: Cut back to the leafy base after the first flush
Stems flop openLikely cause: Rich soil, shade or overwatering
What to do: More sun, less water, no fertilizer
Russian sage looks dead in AprilLikely cause: Late leaf-out on woody stems
What to do: Wait for buds; then cut back
Plant died over winterLikely cause: Wet winter soil
What to do: Replant on a mound in gritty soil
Yellowing leaves and a mushy crown mean too wet. Sprawling stems usually mean too rich or too much water.
ASPCA lists garden sage (S. officinalis) and scarlet sage (S. coccinea) as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses. Russian sage isn't listed; its aromatic leaves are rarely eaten.
Deer: resistant · Rabbits: resistant
Finnegan saysStill not sure what’s wrong? Ask Plant Health — describe it or add a photo.
Good in pots · 2 gallon+
Perennial salvias do well in pots with gritty mix; Russian sage needs 5 gallon+. Shelter pots in zone 5 winters.
Outdoor plant
Not suited to indoor growing.
Best after a cold winter
Normal winter dormancy supports strong spring growth and bloom.
Plugs from the tray
3–4 inch pots for 3–5 weeks, until roots hold the soil
Garden bed or a 2 gallon potTime to move up? Slide the plant out: if white roots wrap the outside of the soil, it’s ready for the next size.
Planting with lavender
Plant it right alongside lavender
A classic lavender partner: same full sun, fast drainage and low water. Blue and purple spikes bloom alongside lavender and keep color going after it with rebloom.
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