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Bare root arrives dormant
Expect new growth in 6 to 8 weeks after planting. Until then it can look lifeless, so you won’t be able to tell within 24 hours of arrival whether it will grow.
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The 50% production deposit reserves greenhouse space and is non-refundable once the order is approved. If an order paid in full is cancelled before fulfillment, the farm keeps 50% and refunds the rest. If Great Lakes Lavender Farm cannot propagate or supply the plants, everything paid is refunded. The remaining balance is due 14 days before the confirmed ship or pickup date. Requested dates may change with crop readiness, weather, or shipping restrictions. Shipped wholesale plants also have the per-tray or per-box handling charge displayed with these terms, plus carrier or freight cost. This handling charge does not apply to local pickup.
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Start with PHENOMENAL® Lavender - Bare Root Plant, mix qualifying varieties,
track minimums and pricing, and coordinate future production in one place.
PHENOMENAL® lavender (Lavandula × intermedia ‘PHENOMENAL’) is offered here as a bare root plant. This cultivar is distinguished by violet flowers, silver green, gray green foliage, a large, rounded, strongly branched, vigorous growth habit. Its fragrance profile is described as strong floral-herbal lavandin, sweet lavender layered with fresh camphoraceous notes.
Best uses: Essential Oil, High Oil Production, Fragrance, Fresh Bouquets, Dried Flowers, U-Pick
Documented traits: Phenomenal is a modern vigorous lavandin selected for broad landscape adaptability, strong branching, silver-green foliage and purple-violet summer flowers, Current perennial production records commonly place it around 30–32 in high × 32–36 in wide and USDA Zones 5–9, with strong fresh/dried cut-flower and pollinator value
Cut flower rating: Excellent
Dried flower rating: Excellent
U-pick rating: Large Bundle
Essential oil suitability: Excellent
Culinary suitability: Good
Growing PHENOMENAL® lavender
Sun exposure: full-sun
Preferred soil: sandy, loamy
Watering needs: low
Heat tolerance: Generally strong summer heat performance once established, provided soil drains rapidly.
Humidity tolerance: Best with low to moderate humidity, strong airflow, and rapidly draining soil.
Disease resistance: Lavender is vulnerable to root disease in persistently wet soil, provide excellent drainage and avoid overwatering.
Pollinator value: Excellent
Deer resistance: Resistant
Bare Root Plant ordering information
This listing is priced per individual bare-root lavender plant. Bare-root plants have established roots of at least 6.25 inches and are at least two years old; order in boxes of 25 per variety (25, 50, 75 and so on). Bare root ships March 1 through May 31.
Lavender performs best in full sun and sharply drained soil. Use the cultivar-specific dimensions and ratings above when planning plant spacing, harvest rows, landscape placement, or commercial production.
Your reaction votes in that category and also adds one equal point to the photo's overall Lavender Crown total.
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📷Best ViewThe strongest composition, setting, or scene
🌱Healthiest VigorStrong visible growth for the plant's age and season
✨Creative GrowingAn inventive pot, trellis, landscape, bed, or field
Category accolades: the photo leading each emoji earns that badge; one photo can earn several. Overall Lavender Crown: all four emoji counts combine, and the highest monthly total wins. Monthly counts restart, but approved photos stay enrolled. Cultivar-confidence votes are separate.
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A large, vigorous hybrid of English and spike lavender that wants full sun, fast drainage and room to spread. Long stems and big oil yields; hardy in most of the North if winter wet is avoided.
Huckleberry saysTell me where you grow and I’ll check if Phenomenal will thrive there.
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Hardy in zones 5a–9b
Spring through early summer in zones 5-6. Fall planting only with about 2 months before hard freeze, as it needs to root in to survive winter.
Your year with Phenomenal
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When it arrives
Your bare-root plant
Bare-root lavender looks like a small woody tuft with gray or brownish foliage and a mop of fibrous roots; that is normal. Soak roots 1-2 hours (not overnight), then plant with the crown at soil level and water in. If you can't plant within 2 days, pot it up.
Expect new growth in 6 to 8 weeks after planting. Bare root ships March–May while dormant, with little or no top growth, and it can look lifeless until then. That’s normal. Evergreen; foliage looks gray and tired after winter. New growth usually shows in May in zone 5-6, often a little later than English lavender. Scratch a stem: green under the bark means alive.
You won’t be able to tell within 24 hours of arrival whether a dormant plant will grow. For coverage after arrival, add the optional 1-Year Grow Guarantee when you order.
When to plant
Spring through early summer in zones 5-6. Fall planting only with about 2 months before hard freeze, as it needs to root in to survive winter.
How deep
Set the crown (where stems meet roots) exactly at soil level, or slightly high on a mound, never deeper than it grew in the pot. Burying stems invites rot. Top-dress with pea gravel, not bark mulch.
Spacing
24-36 in apart (mature plants reach 2-3 ft wide); rows 4-5 ft apart in fields.
Soil
Lean sandy, gravelly or loamy soil; heavy clay only if raised or mounded · pH 6.5–8.0
Fix-it tip: In clay, plant on a mound or raised bed 8-12 in high and mix in coarse grit or pea gravel, not peat or compost-heavy mixes. If pH is below 6.5, add garden lime per a soil test. Skip rich organic mulch; use gravel.
Sun
Full sun (tolerates light afternoon shade in hot southern climates).
Give at least 8 hours of sun. Less light means floppy stems and fewer flowers.
Late winter→Late spring
Don’t give up on it
Is it alive? What spring looks like
Evergreen; foliage looks gray and tired after winter. New growth usually shows in May in zone 5-6, often a little later than English lavender. Scratch a stem: green under the bark means alive.
Spring
Wait until new growth shows (mid-late May in zone 5-6), then shape lightly, removing dead tips and keeping green leaves on every stem.
Summer
Blooms July-August in zone 5-6, usually 2-3 weeks after English lavender. Harvest as buds open. Water only in long dry spells.
Fall
Light tidy after bloom, done by early September in cold zones. No hard pruning or feeding late in the season.
Winter
Evergreen gray foliage that looks dull. Snow cover helps. Keep drainage sharp; don't pile mulch on the crown.
Watering
First season: Water deeply at planting, then about 1 gallon per plant weekly when rain is short through the first summer. Let the top inch dry between waterings.
After that: Drought tolerant from year two. Water only in long dry spells, deeply and at the base, never in the evening on the leaves. Rain is usually enough in the Great Lakes region.
Feeding
Little or none. Lavender does best in lean soil. If growth is weak, give a light dose of slow-release or low-nitrogen fertilizer once in spring. Too much feeding means floppy growth, fewer flowers, and more disease.
Pruning & deadheading
Cut back after bloom (July-August), taking flower stems plus a few inches of foliage to shape a mound. Light spring tidy once new growth shows. Never cut into leafless old wood; it rarely resprouts. Always leave at least 2-3 sets of green leaves on each stem.
Dividing
Do not divide. Lavender is a woody subshrub with one main stem base; division usually kills it. Replace old woody plants with new ones from cuttings or plugs.
Winter
Most cultivars are rated zones 5-8, some to zone 5 only with snow cover and excellent drainage. Slightly less hardy than English lavender. Avoid wet, low spots; evergreen boughs help in windy zone 5 sites.
Summer heat
Loves heat and sun. Humid summers (Southeast, humid Midwest) are the bigger threat: give good air flow, wide spacing and gravel mulch to keep leaves dry and avoid fungal dieback. Tolerates heat and humidity somewhat better than English lavender.
Looks gray and dead in early spring
Likely cause: Normal winter dormancy; leaves dull over winter and new growth starts late
What to do: Wait until mid-to-late May (zone 5-6). Scratch stems: green under bark is alive. Then trim off only truly dead tips.
Whole plant or one side turns gray-brown and collapses in summer
Likely cause: Root or crown rot from wet, heavy soil, overwatering or mulch piled on the crown
What to do: Remove the plant and soil around it. Replant on a gravel-amended mound in full sun and water less.
Woody, splayed center with bare stems
Likely cause: Skipped annual pruning; stems lengthen and split under snow
What to do: Prune yearly, leaving green leaves on each stem. Very old woody plants rarely recover; replace them.
Long flower stems flop open in the center
Likely cause: Heavy bloom, too much water or fertilizer, or too little sun
What to do: Harvest stems promptly, prune into a tight mound after bloom, and keep it lean and sunny.
Too wet or too dry?
Overwatering: yellowing lower leaves, gray-black stem bases, sudden wilting of a whole branch or plant (root rot). Underwatering in year one: soft drooping tips that recover after a drink.
Watch for
Root and crown rot (Phytophthora and others) in wet or heavy soil
Leaf spot and stem blight in humid summers or crowded plantings
Spittlebugs (foamy blobs on stems in spring); rinse off with water
ASPCA lists lavender (L. angustifolia) as toxic to dogs, cats and horses from linalool and linalyl acetate: nausea, vomiting (not horses), appetite loss. Treat this species the same; keep essential oils away from pets.
Deer: resistant · Rabbits: resistant
Finnegan saysStill not sure what’s wrong? Ask Plant Health — describe it or add a photo.
In a container
Possible, with care · 3 gallon+
Grows too large for small pots; use at least a 3-5 gallon clay pot with gritty mix. Potted plants are less hardy; overwinter them in an unheated garage in zone 6 and colder.
Indoors
Outdoor plant
A cold-hardy lavender that needs winter chill and strong sun; it declines indoors. Keep it outside year-round, or overwinter potted plants in an unheated garage or cold frame.
Winter chill
Best after a cold winter
Like English lavender, lavandin blooms most reliably after a cold winter. It is a sterile hybrid, so it's grown from cuttings, not seed.
Growing it on
Dormant bare root, soaked and planted
Or a 1–2 gallon pot if the ground isn’t ready
Garden bed or a 3 gallon pot
Time to move up? Slide the plant out: if white roots wrap the outside of the soil, it’s ready for the next size.
Cut into green→A tidy mound
The one rule that matters
The green-wood rule
Prune right after harvest, cutting stems plus 1/3 of the leafy growth into a rounded dome. Leave green leaves on every stem; don't cut into bare wood. Avoid hard pruning after early September in cold zones.
When to harvest
Bundles and crafts: cut when about half the buds are open. Dried buds and sachets: when most buds are open. Oil: at full bloom, when yield is highest. Cut in the morning after dew dries.
Cold hardiness
USDA zones 5-8 for most cultivars. Generally a bit less cold-tolerant than L. angustifolia; sharp drainage matters most.
In the kitchen
Limited - edible but higher in camphor, so flavor is sharper and more medicinal. Use very sparingly; English lavender is preferred for cooking.
Essential oil
Lavandin oil: the highest-yielding lavender oil, with more camphor and 1,8-cineole than true lavender oil. Widely used in soaps, cleaners and fragrance.
Good companions
Same sunny, dry, lean bed: yarrow, catmint, salvia, Russian sage, coneflower, sedum, thyme, oregano, artemisia, ornamental grasses and roses (if not overwatered).
Lavender grow guide
Community Grower Report
