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Lavender companion · grow guide
Coreopsis (Tickseed) · Coreopsis
Coreopsis wants full sun and well-drained, average soil. Most are drought tolerant once established; deadheading keeps them blooming.
Check my zone & planting dates
Full sunLight
Low waterFast drainage
pH 5.5–7.5Soil
Zones 5a–9bHardiness
14″ tall14″ wide
Some resistanceDeer · rabbits some resistance
Not known toxicPets
Huckleberry saysTell me where you grow and I’ll check if Uptick Yellow & Red will thrive there.
Hardy in zones 5a–9b
Spring after frost or early fall.
Your year with Uptick Yellow & Red
When it arrives
Plugs are small and dry out fast. Water on arrival, keep in bright light, and harden off a week before planting. Pot 72-cell plugs into 3-4 in pots or plant into the bed once rooted. Pinch tips once after planting for bushier plants.
Spring after frost or early fall.
Crown at soil level, same depth as in the pot.
12-18 in apart.
Average, sandy, or loam soil · pH 5.5–7.5
Fix-it tip: In clay, mix in grit and compost and raise the bed; wet winter soil kills many coreopsis. Don't enrich heavily.
Full sun (tolerates light part shade).
Less sun means fewer flowers and floppy stems.
Don’t give up on it
Species differ. Large-flowered types keep a green leafy base and grow early in spring; threadleaf and pink tickseed types emerge later, often not until mid to late spring.
Wait for late emergers; cut old stems.
Deadhead or shear for repeat bloom.
Leave stems standing.
Keep crowns dry.
First season: Water weekly through the first summer if rain is short.
After that: Drought tolerant; water in long dry spells. Pink tickseed (C. rosea) types like a bit more moisture.
Little to none. Rich soil or heavy feeding causes flopping and short life.
Deadhead spent flowers regularly, or shear plants back by about a third in midsummer for a fresh flush. Leave stems over winter and cut back in spring.
Every 2-3 years for spreading types; large-flowered types are often short-lived and replaced rather than divided.
Hardiness varies by type. Good drainage is the key to survival; avoid heavy mulch over crowns. Leaving stems standing helps.
Loves heat. Large-flowered types may tire after a heavy first flush; shearing helps. Some get mildew in humid weather.
Plant didn't return in springLikely cause: Wet winter soil or naturally short-lived type
What to do: Plant in faster-draining soil and wait until late spring before giving up on late-emerging types.
Few flowers mid-summerLikely cause: Spent flowers left on
What to do: Shear back by a third and water; new buds follow.
Floppy, open growthLikely cause: Too rich, too wet, or too shady
What to do: Stop feeding and give more sun.
Blackened, collapsing crowns mean too wet. Wilting in heat that doesn't recover by evening means too dry.
ASPCA lists coreopsis as non-toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.
Deer: somewhat resistant · Rabbits: somewhat resistant
Finnegan saysStill not sure what’s wrong? Ask Plant Health — describe it or add a photo.
Good in pots · 1 gallon+
Compact types do well in pots in full sun. Use well-drained mix and deadhead often.
Outdoor plant
Needs full sun and winter dormancy outdoors.
Best after a cold winter
Many modern coreopsis bloom the first summer; older large-flowered types bloom more fully after a winter outdoors.
Plugs from the tray
3–4 inch pots for 3–5 weeks, until roots hold the soil
Garden bed or a 1 gallon potTime to move up? Slide the plant out: if white roots wrap the outside of the soil, it’s ready for the next size.
Planting with lavender
Plant it right alongside lavender
Shares lavender's full sun and well-drained soil. Bright yellow and red daisies pair well with purple spikes and keep the bed blooming after lavender's first flush.
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